About the type of kimono pongee

What is pongee

What is pongee?Pongee threadIt is a preliminary fabric using.

The preceding dyeing is a method of expressing a pattern with a hand -dyed thread using a hand -woven machine or machine.
It costs and costs more than a post -dye where patterns are dyed by making full use of various techniques from white fabric, but because each thread is dyed and woven, it has less discoloration and deterioration and excellent durability. I am.

For a long time, it has been used as everyday clothes and wild clothes, and has been inherited from father to child for several generations.

There is also an anecdote that the pongee that has just been tailored has hard dough, and wealthy merchants have their employees wear their own pongee and softened.

The characteristic of durability, stray clothes (work clothes), and hard to wear are similar to denim.

Pongee thread

Kimono weaving machine

The silk thread is made by pulling out the fiber of the cocoon, but the pongee thread is made by crushing the quality of the raw silk and spinning the thread from the cotton.

The pongee thread is not uniform because the twist is applied by hand, and the cloth made of these threads is a pongee fabric.
While the surface of the cloth made of silk thread made from this cocoon has a unique silk gloss, the pongee gives a dull gloss and a small bump gives a unique texture.

Typical pongee

Oshima Tsumugi

Oshima Tsumugi is a pongee woven in Amami Oshima.

On Amami Oshima, plants (techigi) have been dyed before the Nara period.
The mud dye that rubs the thread that has been dyed many times on the mud field and rubbed it is expressed in a sturdy and beautiful texture.

In addition, it is difficult to wrinkle when worn, and from 100%silk, it features a glossy light skin touch. It takes a lot of time to weave one Oshima pongee with advanced technology, six months to one year.

  • White island
  • Indigo island
  • Kusaki Domo Oshima
  • Mud Oshima

It is also a feature of Oshima Tsumugi that there are many types.

Oshima Tsumugi with a wide variety

Kumejima Tsumugi

It is a pongee woven in Kume Island, Okinawa Prefecture.

Manufacturing is performed by only one craftsman from pattern to dyeing. The pongee method in each region is from Kumejima, and Kumejima is also famous as the birthplace of pongee.

The unique reddish black color and glossy black color is a feature of Kumejima Tsumugi.

In 1975, he was designated as a traditional craft and was certified as a national important cultural property in 2004.

Cow neck pongee

It is a pongee woven in Shiramine Village, Ishikawa -gun, Ishikawa Prefecture.

We make a traditional technique called "Nebeki", which is handled directly by hand from the ball that made one cocoon created by two or more silkworms, with experienced craftsmanship.

The yarn is a complicated two threads, making it a thread with a lot of knots.
It has a durable and firm texture, and its durability is said to be broken even if the fabric is hooked on the nail, and conversely, the nails will come off.
for that reason"Nail sensation pongee"There is also an alias.

Yuki pongee

Tsumugi woven in Yuki City, Ibaraki Prefecture

Yuki Tsumugi is famous as a high -end textile that has continued since the Nara period. Many wealthy people have been wearing them since ancient times.

Originally, Yuki City has a thriving sericulture, and it is said that Yuki Tsumugi began as a side job during the off season of agriculture.

The feature of Yuki Tsumugi is that it is soft and warm, soft and soft, easy to wear, and is hard to wear.

Difference between pongee and kasuri

KasuriIt refers to the pattern and those techniques that use Kasuri thread.

Kasuri thread is a woven yarn that is dyed in advance so that it does not color, and is used in both yarns (Yokoi).

Kasuri's technology was born in India and was said to have been transmitted to Japan.
Similar techniques are often found in Southeast Asia and around the world, and are one of the popular textile techniques.

As a common mistake in Kasuri, it is a wrong perception of Kasuri because it is fading.
Kasuri refers to something that uses Kasuri thread, and does not call the textile that is just Kasuri, but does not call it Kasuri.

Tsumugi and Kasuri are often mistaken

The reason for this is that there is a pongee using Kasuri thread.
The pongee is woven by the preliminary dyeing method, and the thread used at that time is a Kasuri thread that dyed in advance.

fundamentally"Tsumugi = Kimono using Kasuri thread"Therefore, it seems that many people confuse pongee and Kasuri.

  1. "Tsumugi = cloth / kimono"
  2. "Kasuri = pattern / technique"

There is no mistake if you remember.